What
we know as Brazilian cuisine began as most so-called ethnic food movements do,
with small restaurants in the neighborhoods where immigrants settled, diners and
lunchrooms and tea rooms opened by those who wanted to offer a taste of home to
their fellow émigrés. One of the latest new cuisine trends that
is spreading like wildfire is Brazilian -- a delicious blending of three separate
cultures that comes together in dishes and delicacies that are not found anywhere
else in the world.
To
understand the cuisine of Brazil, one need understand some of its history. The
base of Brazilian cuisine is in its native roots: the foods that sustained the
native Brazilians -- cassava, yams, fish, and meat. But it also bears the stamp
of the Portuguese who came to conquer and stayed, and the African slaves that
the Portuguese brought with them to work the sugar plantations. Brazilian cuisine
today is a seamless conglomeration of the three influences that interweave in
a unique and totally "Brazilian" style.
The
staples of the Brazilian diet are root vegetables, seafood, and meats. Manioc,
derived from cassava root, is the flour of the region, and is eaten in one form
or another at nearly every meal. The bitter cassava root is poisonous in its raw
state, but when prepared correctly, the cassava root yields farinha and tapioca,
bases for many dishes of the region.
The
Portuguese influence appears in the rich, sweet egg breads that are served at
many meals, and in the seafood dishes that blend "fruits de mer" with
coconut and other native fruits and vegetables. The national dish, bobo de
camarao, is one of these, a delicious mingling of fresh shrimp in a puree
of dried shrimp, coconut milk and nuts, and manioc (cassava) meal, flavored with
a palm oil called dende.
It
is the African influence that is most felt, however. Pineapple and coconut milk,
shredded coconut, and palm hearts worked their way into everyday dishes, flavoring
meat, shrimp, fish, vegetables, and bread. Brazilian food, unlike the cuisines
of many of the surrounding countries, favors the sweet rather than the hot, and
more than any other South American cuisine, it carries the savor and flavor of
tropical island breezes rather than the heat and spiciness of the desert.
The
most common ingredients in Brazilian cuisine are cassava, coconut, dende, black
beans, and rice. Bacalao, which is salt cod, features in many dishes derived from
the Portuguese, but flavored with typical Brazilian insouciance with coconut cream
and pistachio nuts it morphs into an entirely different food. It is typical of
the Brazilian attitude toward food -- an expression of a warm and open people
to whom feeding and sharing food is the basis of hospitality without ever overwhelming
the contributions of the other.
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